The Gladwin Family Journal
Snapshots, Reels and Observations from February
WELLIES IN THE MUD
A well-known wellington boot company brought their key “influencers” for a day out in the vineyard to experience winter foraging, farming and country feasting. Fitted out in the brand’s latest rainwear and wellies it happened to be a perfect, blue skied, crisp February day. Of course the brothers assured the guests that Nutbourne’s microclimate meant this weather was standard, but I am not sure they were convinced. The soggy ground and sad looking sheep gave the game away.
However, Oliver’s creations in the outdoor kitchen rose to new heights - Mushroom Marmite Éclairs and the lightest touch Herby Scones with a Blood sausage paste were served down by the lake along with Nutty Wild. A stunning Beetroot Cured, then open-wood-fire smoked Halibut was presented with glistening white balsamic gel, a little chill oil and dried seaweed. A pasta course of handmade Spinach Ravioli with freshly picked wild garlic followed. The main was, appropriately enough, a magnificent Beef Wellington (us real workers, came in from the vines looking for left overs but every scrap had been eaten). And to finish, Pear & Cranberry Crumble (a recipe we shared in last month’s journal) together with some mini dark Chocolate & Caramelized Rhubarb Tartlets.
All this was washed down with our eponymous Sussex Reserve white wine, Nutbourne Pinot Noir 2020 and a Somerset Apple Brandy. The day was a great success with just enough mud underfoot to tick all the boxes.
February has brought...
- The inevitable Valentine’s Day hype in all our restaurants (it is actually much
better to celebrate the day after when red roses halve in price!) - A blending day in the winery - Gregory, Emma and team evaluating last year’s production
- A last minute family ski trip to discover what is so magical about snow
- Richard Gladwin exploring Swiss wine with his staff at Sussex Soho
- Bridget and Oliver in an artistic challenge, taking on one of the world’s most famous paintings
...and, of course, we are sharing some lovely new recipes with you
TASTING AND BLENDING - SOMEONE'S GOT TO DO IT
The wines from last year’s harvest have been maturing in barrels and tank. Fermented grape juice is a living thing; with time it changes and develops different layers of flavour and individual character.
The blending process is to explore the maximum potential for each individual wine. The tools at hand are to take the wine off its lees, or blend two or more ferments into one, perhaps add a percentage of older vintage reserve wine to soften and add complexity, or to filter and bottle as soon as possible to capture the freshness of what has been created.
Everyone has an opinion at the tasting session - our consultant, Emma Rice, looks at analytical possibilities, percentages, and legal requirements; Gregory considers practicalities, the fruit as it came in and the harvest nuance; others debate aromas, fruitiness, body, residual sweetness and finish; then finally, the old man gets to decide!
What's in Season
We have just started harvesting young wild garlic and nettle leaves. They are easy to detect by the drifting culinary aroma found along shady banks. The wild garlic grows in great quantity and no one can object to you gathering some. We make a wild herb pesto and keep it in sealed jars to use throughout the year.
It is the dots of vivid colour sprouting from the earth that lift my heart with the promise of Spring - Crocuses, Snowdrops and Primroses. The latter is Oliver’s champion ingredient of the month. Primroses blossom in abundance in the early spring. The flowers come in a rainbow of different colours although yellow is the classic. These edible flowers have a gentle, sweet floral flavour but more importantly add a vibrant touch of early spring colour to savoury or sweet dishes. Oliver gently brushes the petal with whipped egg white and then sprinkles them with icing sugar to both preserve and sparkle.
Our other February Champions:
In the Wild
Young Nettles, Wild Garlic, Alexanders
(Horse Parsley), Jack-by-the-Hedge and Chickweed
Last of the Wild Duck and Hare
Wild Venison and Wood Pigeon
Velvet Shank Mushrooms
From the Land
Purple Sprouting Broccoli
Spring Greens
Beetroot
From the Coast
Brown Crab
Line-caught Cod
Oysters
Restaurant Adventures
I am pleased to report that our restaurants continue to buzz and the appetite for mid-February valentine entertaining has never been greater. The Black Lamb in Wimbledon won our internal challenge for "most couples holding hands"!
We are sharing the recipe for Dark Chocolate Mousse garnished with white chocolate shavings and rose petals so you can re-live the romance at home on “telly night in”.
Art in Reflection
Rabbit on the Kings Road now features a wonderful new countryside mural across the mirrored wall - vines, wildflowers, sheep, meadows, windmills, and of course, rabbits to the fore.
Following Richard’s short foray to the Alps, he decided that Swiss Pinot Noir was the way forward. It is often the case that a wine much enjoyed on holiday is a disappointment when tried again back home. But not so this V. Buhl Spatburgunder from Trocken Pfalz - earthy, rich ripe fruit with gentle wood smoke, sweet spice and wonderful length. It is on the blackboards as wine of the month at Sussex in Soho and The Shed in Notting Hill.
And whilst on the subject of red wine - Wine Merchants Butter is a fabulous accompaniment for grilled red meats. See the recipe here →
And finally a word about pies at The Pigs Ear in Chelsea. There is actually a National Pie Week at the beginning of March - but why am I surprised? (Between Britain and the US there is a national celebration for everything from hairstyles to Tiddly Winks).
However Pie and a Pint at TPE is not to be missed - the pies vary from a vegetarian Mushroom Celeriac and Wild Thyme to a Steak, Kidney and Bone Marrow classic - hard to resist combined with a pint of draught Guinness.
A New Arrival
The first new born of the season, together with it’s proud mum! On the morning of the birth a buyer from a well known chain of upmarket London stores came to visit the vineyard to try our wines. I think this little poppet clinched the deal!
For obvious reasons Gregory cooks a
lot of beef. Here he shares his Ox Cheek Stew Recipe →
What's so special about the snow?
We took my oldest granddaughter (aged 6) on her first skiing trip; I had forgotten the magic of a first encounter with a pristine white world of newly fallen snow.
The sport itself was totally thrilling- descending mountains at great speed and with minimum effort is a sensation like nothing else - in the words of my breathless ward “I was flying Grandpa, did you see me?“.
The crystal clean Alpine air, the brightest blue sky, pine trees impossibly laden with volumes of new snow and the majesty of distant peaks. Then by night, there is the perpetual glow of an all white landscape dotted with twinkling golden lights from picture-book chalets. But most of all it is the fluffy white snow itself. No drift could be left unexplored; the little girl simply flopped and rolled in the stuff - bliss!
Girl With A Pearl Earring
Artists have always studied, copied and taken inspiration from the grand masters of art. For no apparent reason Bridget has been temporarily obsessed by Vermeer’s “Girl with a Pearl Earring” - books, videos and analysis, plus all the art-school exercises - continuous line drawing without lifting the charcoal from the page; left handed if you lead with your right; and eyes on the subject only, without glancing at the image you are making.
One evening phone call with Oliver she shared her endeavours, and lo and behold by the following morning he had created his own interpretation and sent this photo back to her. She was livid! it is rather good.
New Recipes from the Gladwin Kitchens
Wine Merchant's Butter
Gosh I am showing my age! 50 years ago it was commonplace to serve a slice of melting butter on a grilled piece of meat - the favourite was Maître d’Hôtel with just parsley, lemon and seasoning. This classic compound butter recipe is “Beurre Marchand du Vin”. It is a fabulous enhancement for steak, lamb or pork and can be frozen in slices ready to use at a moments notice.
Gregory's Ox Cheek Stew
We all think of Oliver as the great chef of the Gladwin family and he is indeed a talent to be reckoned with.
However, both his brothers also take the cooking lead in their respective households. This slow cooked beef cheek stew with dumplings served to his family and friends sounded very appealing, so much so that I insisted he make it again for Bridget and I to try. It really is a wonderful dish.
Dark Chocolate Mousse
Chocolate isn’t just for Valentine’s Day! This rich mousse is easy to make and ticks all the boxes for being rich, indulgent and totally wicked. We decorate it with white chocolate shavings and a few rose petals.
Photography by: Catherine Frawley, Ed Dallimore, Olivia Thomas, Lani Gladwin and Richard Gladwin
Designed and Edited by Olivia Thomas